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Exploring “Mandai”: gastronomy of Banjar ethnic in Kalimantan, Indonesia

Journal of Ethnic Foods volume 11, Article number: 40 (2024) Cite this article

Abstract

Mandai is a traditional food product made from the inner skin of the cempedak fruit (Artocarpus champeden), processed using a fermentation method, and discovered by the Banjar ethnic group in Kalimantan. This article aims to review the history, development, fermentation process, derivative products, and Mandai in Banjar ethnic gastronomy, and to discuss the potential of Mandai as a tourism product. A narrative literature review was used to describe the Mandai phenomenon from various relevant sources. These results depict that Mandai is a traditional fermented food that continues to grow and has the potential to support the tourism industry in the respective region. This article is the first international review that examines Mandai from a scientific perspective. The findings of this study enrich knowledge about traditional fermented foods and serve as a guide for gastronomy and tourism professionals in Kalimantan in the future Mandai development.

Introduction

Indonesia is the largest archipelagic country in the world which has 16,771 islands inhabited by more than 275 million people from 1331 ethnic groups [1, 2]. This geographical and multicultural background has contributed to cultural diversity, including food culture, and has produced a variety of unique exotic culinary delights, totaling 5300 traditional foods that have been passed down from generation to generation from the ancestors of the Indonesian people [3, 4]. This illustrates that Indonesia’s culinary landscape is rich and diverse, reflecting the country's vast gastronomy tapestry [5].

One of the regions that hold Indonesia's gastronomic wealth is Kalimantan Island (Fig. 1), an island home to several indigenous ethnic groups (i.e., Dayak, Kutai, Banjar), which has long been a melting pot of customs and traditions [6, 7]. Trade routes facilitate the exchange of goods, including food items and spices, and these routes, both on land and through waterways, add to the region's gastronomy [8, 9]. Geographically, Kalimantan is a mega biodiversity that provides natural food resources that have colored their food traditions and cultures [10]. This island boasts a breathtaking culinary tapestry that is as diverse as its verdant rainforests and mighty rivers [11]. Influenced by Indigenous tribes, Malay traditions, and Chinese immigrants, each region on the island presents a unique flavor profile [12].

Fig. 1
figure 1

[13] a A map of Indonesia's archipelago. b The Kalimantan region in the Indonesian archipelago is inhabited by indigenous ethnic groups, such as Dayak, Banjar, and Kutai

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Previous studies have reported that the diversity of traditional foods in this region has unique characteristics that reflect the cultural tradition and their gastronomy [14,15,16,17]. Various terms, for example, "Banjar cuisine,” "Kutai cuisine,” and "Dayak cuisine" are very familiar among local circles and have become proud jargon that emphasizes their gastronomic identity [11, 18]. Currently, Indigenous ethnic food, especially "Banjar cuisine,” continues to experience positive growth in supporting the creative economy sector in the culinary sector and has become an important asset that functions as city branding, a means of tourism promotion, and attracting the flow of tourists to visit the area [19]. The phenomenon of the emergence of eateries, restaurants, and culinary festivals with the theme of Banjar ethnic cuisine in various regions of the Indonesian archipelago is also expanding the culinary landscape of this community [20, 21].

Therefore, considering this phenomenon, Banjar ethnic cuisine was chosen in this study to increase our understanding of its nuances and unique characteristics that represent local gastronomic identity. This particular context focuses on investigating the traditional fermented foods of the Banjar ethnic group, which has grown to be a significant aspect of their history, food traditions, heritage recipes, and gastronomy. One of them is Mandai, this ethnic food is made from the skin of the cempedak fruit (Artocarpus champeden) which is traditionally fermented [22]. This is similar to the fermented food tradition in many regions and countries, for example, the kimchi and jang tradition in South Korea [23]. This starts with the abundant harvest of agricultural products and the need to store, preserve, improve the taste, and enrich the nutrition of food [24]. Mandai has also emerged as an effort to preserve food so that it is available for a long time, can be enjoyed at any time, and is a sustainable food source for the Banjar ethnic group. Currently, this typical fermented food continues to be developed as a menu served by street food vendors, traditional restaurants, and tourist souvenirs. However, the Banjar ethnic fermented food is not yet well known internationally and has escaped the attention of academics.

Previous researchers have produced studies related to fermented foods from various countries, for example, kimchi and jang from South Korea, basturma from Iraq, and fermented mutton (skerpikjøt and ræstkjøt) from the Faroe Islands [25,26,27,28], which were published in the Journal of Ethnic Foods. However, amidst this culinary mosaic, no one has focused on reviewing traditional Mandai fermented foods as the gastronomy of the Banjar ethnic group in Kalimantan, and this remains relatively underexplored [29]. Likewise, with researchers from Indonesia, the resulting studies are still limited to the exploration of Indonesian fermented foods, such as peuyeum, tuak, terasi, and ina sua [30,31,32,33], and other traditional foods, such as pempek, soto, gudeg, sambal, terasi, rendang, and offal-based dishes [34,35,36,37]. Moreover, scientific articles that review Mandai are still limited to the scope of food science and technology, such as the characterization of lactic acid bacteria isolates from Mandai, revealing the nutritional potential of Mandai and the phytochemical activity of Mandai vinegar [38,39,40,41,42]. Therefore, the objectives of this study were to explain the history, development, fermentation process, derivative products, and Mandai in Banjar ethnic gastronomy and to discuss the potential of Mandai as a tourism product. The results are expected to contribute to a more comprehensive understanding of Indonesia's gastronomy landscape, contribute to knowledge about the development of traditional Banjar ethnic fermented food, and promote Mandai as a tourism product in the future.

Methodology

This study uses a narrative literature review approach that aims to identify and summarize information or knowledge that has been previously published from multiple sources, filling the gaps in the existing research and suggesting new topics not yet addressed in the study of ethnic food and gastronomy [43,44,45]. This approach is applied to explore various essential aspects related to Mandai fermented food, starting from history, development, and innovation to Mandai’s Banjar ethnic gastronomy and potential as a tourism product. The sources were collected from databases such as Scopus and Google Scholar using the keywords “mandai,” “mandai fermented food,” “masakan Banjar” (Banjar cuisine), and “gastronomi Banjar” (Banjar gastronomy). The literature sources included articles and books published from 2000 to 2023 and were taken in English and Bahasa. The selected articles were chosen based on their suitability for this study: six articles from Scopus, ten articles from Google Scholar, and three scientific books. In addition, mandai-themed opinion articles published in food specialty magazines and trusted online newspapers were reviewed. The combination of these scholarly and popular references is due to the fact that there are still few scholarly publications or journals that address this idea.

Results and discussion

A short history of Mandai

Kalimantan is a region that is synonymous with tropical forests and contains abundant natural resources and local community culture that is integrated with the surrounding natural environment [7, 46]. In general, Banjar people are highly dependent on local resources to fulfill their daily lives [47, 48]. Mandai is produced from cempedak fruit (Fig. 2a) which grows naturally and is often found in forests, yards, and mixed gardens in rural Kalimantan [49, 50]. Cempedak plants in this area can bear fruit throughout the year, but usually, a large harvest occurs in June–August, and a small harvest occurs in November–December [51, 52]. When the season arrives, the numbers are abundant, and this fruit can be purchased for Rp. 10,000–Rp. 20,000 or 1 USD in traditional markets (Fig. 2b); however, the price of cempedak skin is more expensive than the content of the fruit that is sold for Rp. 25,000–Rp. 30,000 or 2 USD [53].

Fig. 2
figure 2

a A tree, which bears abundant fruit, is often found in traditional plantations owned by residents in the Kalimantan region [54]. b Cempedak fruit picked by local farmers is sold on the side of a rural road [55]. c Resident sells cempedak fruit skin that is ready to be processed into Mandai [56]

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In Kalimantan, cempedak fruit is a local agricultural product that is very popular and loved by all levels of society because it has a unique taste, texture, distinctive aroma, and is rich in nutrients [57,58,59]. However, cempedak fruit has a short shelf life of approximately 4 days to a week at 27–32 °C after harvest [52]. Therefore, local people apply the fermentation method to process cempedak, especially the skin, to create alternative foods that are sustainable and available all the time. The processing of cempedak skins by fermentation has been carried out traditionally since ancient times and has become a tradition that is well maintained from generation to generation among the Banjar ethnic group [60, 61]. This fermented food product is referred to as Mandai by the local community (Fig. 3a) [62]. The exact timeline of Mandai’s emergence remains unclear, but its roots likely lie in resourceful communities seeking to preserve and utilize the cempedak fruit beyond its fleshy edible portions.

Fig. 3
figure 3

Derivative cempedak: a mandai that is fermented and stored in a closed jar [63]. b Gaguduh cempedak or fried cempedak made from the flesh of the cempedak fruit and its seeds fried with batter [64]

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In Kalimantan, cempedak is also used for fruit content, and Banjar people generally process it into gaguduh cempedak (Fig. 3b) [65]. Gaguduh is made from cempedak fruit flesh (with or without seeds), mixed with batter, fried in preheated oil, and cooked until golden yellow [66, 67]. Gaguduh has a savory taste with a distinctive aroma and usually serves as a warm taste with traditional tea or coffee [68]. This snack is often found and offered for Rp 2000–Rp 3000 or 0.19 USD by street food vendors in the Kalimantan region.

Mandai fermentation

Fermentation is one of the oldest forms of food preservation worldwide [69], and many countries have adopted this method in their fermented food traditions. Cempedak, while delicious, has a shorter shelf life than the other fruits. Fermentation has emerged as a natural preservation method that transforms the inner skin, often discarded as waste, into a flavorful and long-lasting condiment. In general, the process of making Mandai is similar to that of making other traditional fermented foods (e.g., kimchi, sauerkraut, and certain fermented soy products), which are processed naturally or are often called “spontaneous ferments” [70].

Making mandai is carried out by spontaneous fermentation (Fig. 4), including three stages: (1) selecting ripe cempedak fruits, peeling, cutting into small pieces, and washing the inner skin of the cempedak fruit; (2) salting by adding 25% salt (w/v); and (3) processing by soaking the mandai in a high-salt solution during the fermentation time [71]. The soaking time was 12–14 days to a month [41, 72] at room temperature [69]. However, this process causes Mandai to taste too salty because of the use of excessive salt. According to Rahmadi [22] making mandai can also be done without using salt, fermentation is done by adding a starter in the form of Lactic Acid Bacteria from the Lactobacillus Casei species. The bacteria involved in Mandai fermentation greatly influence the quality of the final product [72]. If fermentation continues, Mandai will last up to a year, and the taste will be even more special [73, 74].

Fig. 4
figure 4

[75] Mandai spontaneous fermentation process: a ripe cempedak fruit is split and the skin is taken, b the outer part of the cempedak skin is peeled and cut into small pieces, c the process of mixing cempedak skin with water and salt, fermentation and storage processes using a tightly closed jar

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Mandai development

Fermented foods play an important role in the socioeconomic sector, especially in developing countries [76], one example of which is Mandai in Indonesia. Mandai is a food product that has the potential to develop in Kalimantan’s creative economy. This is supported by the fact that Mandai is processed not only for household consumption but also as a source of livelihood for the economic sustainability of the Banjar community [77]. Currently, fermented foods are mass-produced, attractively packaged, and sold in traditional markets, modern markets, restaurants, and marketplaces (Fig. 5) [78]. Mandai has developed and become popular among people in the region and nationally, and recently, various kinds of Mandai preparations have become foods that are always served in restaurants that provide Banjar cuisine and offered as souvenirs by tourism [79]. Today, Mandai production continues to thrive, driven by small and medium enterprise (SMEs) business activities, with a growing presence in local markets and even gaining recognition beyond its regional origins [80]. Although the core fermentation process remains similar, modern adaptations involve the use of controlled temperature environments and standardized brines to ensure consistent quality and safety [81]. Additionally, innovative applications are emerging, with Mandai incorporated into snacks, demonstrating its versatility and potential for wider appeal [82].

Fig. 5
figure 5

[83] Mandai is still sold fermented in a jar at a local shop in rural Kalimantan. Mandai is available in various jar sizes and prices and varies with the length of storage time or fermentation process. They are typically sold along with other local foods or crops

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Mandai derivative products

In the mandai context, “derived products” most likely refer to food items that have developed from or are influenced by traditional Banjar flavors and cuisines. Processed foods, sambals (chili sauces), snacks, and fusion meals with Mandai components are among these goods. The desire to introduce Banjar flavors to a wider audience, modernity, and shifting cuisine trends could all have an impact on the development of Mandai derivative items.

Mandai is processed into various types of dishes and generally cooked using sautéed and deep-fried techniques with local spices and herbs. After cooking, the texture of Mandai is soft, thick, chewy, does not fall apart easily, and is fibrous like meat [84]. Generally, mandai serves as a side dish or is complemented with warm rice, fish, chicken, other vegetables, and sambals (chili sauce) [85]. Mandai preparations have a unique taste and flavor, are recognized to increase appetite, and are beneficial for health due to their high nutritional content, these benefits are related to the presence of microorganisms known as probiotics [22, 76]. For Banjar people, processed Mandai is tastier and the main choice and the most anticipated dish compared to chicken [86]. Recently, various culinary innovations by Mandai have emerged (Fig. 6) [87,88,89]. The development of Mandai derivative goods may also contribute to the preservation and promotion of Banjar culinary legacy by increasing the accessibility of these tastes to a broader consumer base.

Fig. 6
figure 6

Mandai derivative products: a Crispy Mandai, made by mixing pieces of Mandai with seasoned flour and frying until it has a crispy texture [90]. b Mandai sambal, made from mandai with a mixture of crushed red chilies, shallots, and garlic [91]. c Mandai Serundeng, made from Mandai mixed with basic white spices and sauteed until dry [89]. d Oseng Mandai, made from Mandai stir-fried with onion, garlic, chili and soya sauce [75]. e fried Mandai is served with boiled cassava leaves, sambal and fried chicken [92]. f fried Mandai is served with sambal and fried fish [92]

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Mandai in Banjar ethnic gastronomy

Gastronomy is often associated with local food, which reflects the authenticity and cultural identity of local communities [93]. Mandai is an authentic food that symbolizes the Banjar’s cultural identity and ethnic food traditions. In the Banjar ethnic tradition, almost all communal ceremonies or rituals, such as atur dahar (Fig. 7a) and aruh mulud or batalam (Fig. 7b), are accompanied by cooking various foods and enjoying traditional culinary delights, including various mandai dishes [47] and other culinary delights such as soto Banjar [34]. This tradition has created the same habits and concept of Banjar food or "Banjar cuisine" from generation to generation, as well as forming their gastronomic identity [94, 95]. This gastronomic identity is not only deeply rooted among the Banjar ethnic group who live in Kalimantan, but is also integrated with the Banjar people who live outside the Kalimantan region. In general, Banjar people who live anywhere can recognize local heritage foods well and the stories behind them [96].

Fig. 7
figure 7

Banjar ethnic traditions in Kalimantan: a atur dahar is a tradition of eating for Thanksgiving events involving extended families, neighbors, and traditional leaders [97]. b aruh mulud or batalam is a meal celebrating Islamic holidays or religious ceremonies [98]

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Mandai's potential as a tourism product in Kalimantan

Given its distinctive cultural and gastronomic offerings, Mandai presents a promising opportunity for tourism in Kalimantan [19]. Utilizing Mandai in the tourism industry can help the area's economy grow, preserve its culture, and improve visitors' experiences [99, 100]. Several aspects highlight Mandai's potential as a tourism product, including culinary tourism attraction, cultural immersion, community involvement, culinary events and festivals, promotion of local products, and preservation of culinary heritage.

The Kalimantan region is currently developed as a new capital city of Indonesia. This project has become a magnet or attraction for tourists [101, 102]. The World Food Travel Association reports that 53% of tourist destinations want to experience food and 25% have an impact on the local economy [103]. Approximately 30–40% of these tourists shop for food, and traditional food motivates them to visit a destination [104,105,106]. According to Chairy and Syahriar [107], traditional food or ethnic food is not only a cultural product but also an art form that must be preserved to support tourism. Mandai can be packaged in thematic tourist destination packages that contain elements of the gastronomic experience [108]. Tourists can gain knowledge of Banjar gastronomy by becoming involved in preparing for Mandai. Through this activity, tourists can understand the local culture, including how to choose local ingredients (cempedak), process them, the fermentation process, and local community habits through storytelling. Tourists can also enjoy the sensation of shopping at boats (Fig. 8a) [109]. The unique thing about obtaining Mandai raw materials when transacting on a boat is that tourists will have different experiences when choosing Mandai raw materials, which can be done using the traditional bapanduk transaction system, namely by bartering with other necessities [100]. This local uniqueness becomes its own attraction; thus, Mandai has the potential to be developed as a tourism product that can create a memorable experience for tourists [110]. This is also supported (Fig. 8b) by processed mandai (in various food products), produced and packaged by local community actors in small and medium enterprises (SMEs) [111].

Fig. 8
figure 8

Local tourist attraction: a The Banjar ethnic floating market in South Kalimantan provides a variety of local food, and has developed into a tourist destination [112]. b A wide variety of Mandai products made by local community groups are offered and sold at the souvenir center [113]

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Mandai has cultural significance in Kalimantan, as it symbolizes resourcefulness, community knowledge, and traditional foodways. It often serves as a side dish accompanying rice and other savory meals, adding a unique textural and flavor dimension to the dining experience. The growing popularity of Mandai reflects its potential to bridge cultural divides and introduce unique flavors to a wider audience while promoting sustainable food practices.

Conclusion

Mandai is a traditional fermented food discovered by the Banjar ethnic group in Kalimantan. Its existence symbolizes the uniqueness of an ethnic fermented food heritage recipe, that is not found in other regions or countries. For the Banjar people, Mandai is not only a food product but also a medium for expressing their identity [99]. This identity contains a unique gastronomic value that has been passed down in shared memories from generation to generation among the Banjar ethnic groups. Mandai and its innovations have shown growth that contributes to social progress and is an important source of livelihood for local communities [61, 114]. By establishing Mandai as a major tourism hub, Kalimantan can highlight its rich cultural heritage and generate long-term economic advantages for the nearby people. To attract both local and foreign tourists, Mandai can be promoted through cultural events, gastronomy festivals, and immersive tours in addition to gastronomy offerings. Furthermore, by including Mandai in the tourism narrative, the culinary history of the Banjar people is preserved, and customs, tastes, and methods are passed on to the next generation. However, its existence should be supported by a wider community and be accepted in the market. Therefore, Mandai's future development needs to improve its taste and aroma and must be balanced with organoleptic tests so that new products are liked by consumers [74].

Availability of data and materials

All data and materials are included in the paper.

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Acknowledgements

We would like to thank Prof. Dr. Ir. Eni Harmayani, M.Sc., Prof. Dr. Ahmad Maryudi, S.Hut., M.For., Prof. Dr.rer.nat. Muh Aris Marfai, S.Si., M.Sc., Dr. Mohamad Yusuf, MA., Dr.rer.pol. Dyah Widiyastuti, ST., MCP. (Gadjah Mada University, Yogyakarta, Indonesia), Prof. Anton Rahmadi, S.TP., M.Sc., Ph.D. (Mulawarman University, Samarinda, East Kalimantan, Indonesia), Saiful Ghozi, S.Pd., M.Pd. (Balikpapan State Polytechnic, East Kalimantan, Indonesia) who has shared knowledge of writing scientific articles, Indonesian traditional food, and Mandai fermentation processing.

Funding

This study was funded by the Center for Higher Education Funding (BPPT) and Indonesia Endowment Funds for Education (LPDP) (Grant No. 0480/J5.2.3/BPI.06/10/2021).

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Authors and Affiliations

  1. Department of Tourism, Balikpapan State Polytechnic, Balikpapan, East Kalimantan, 76126, Indonesia

    Gozali Gozali, Ria Setyawati & Zulkarnain Zulkarnain

  2. Sekolah Tinggi Pariwisata AMPTA, Yogyakarta, 55281, Indonesia

    I Putu Hardani Hesti Duari

  3. Faculty of Letter, Universitas Negeri Malang, Malang, 65145, Indonesia

    Nandyan Ayu Nooryastuti

  4. Department of Tourism, Universitas Negeri Padang, Padang, West Sumatera, 25131, Indonesia

    Sukma Yudistira

  5. Sekolah Tinggi Pariwisata Ambarrukmo STIPRAM, Bantul, Yogyakarta, 55198, Indonesia

    Hesti Purwaningrum

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Contributions

GG, IPH, and NAN collaborated on this project and created the research concept. GG and RS were involved in data collection and analysis. ZZ and IPH adjusted the draft of the manuscript. NAN and GG assisted with reviewing and editing the manuscript. NAN prepared the manuscript in English. SY and HP elaborated on the research methods and revised and enhanced the manuscript. GG is the main author of this manuscript. All authors have read and approved the final manuscript.

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Correspondence to Gozali Gozali.

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Gozali, G., Setyawati, R., Duari, I.P.H.H. et al. Exploring “Mandai”: gastronomy of Banjar ethnic in Kalimantan, Indonesia. J. Ethn. Food 11, 40 (2024). https://doiorg.publicaciones.saludcastillayleon.es/10.1186/s42779-024-00246-2

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Journal of Ethnic Foods

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